Age: Just a wee three months.
Previous incarnation: A rather anonymous hotel dining room (and streetfood outlet Mac Factory, now being refurbished as a cafe).
Where exactly is it? In a prime location: on the corner of North Gower Street, opposite the tube.
So what goes on there? Breakfast, lunch and dinner, of course: from eggs benedict and buttermilk pancakes to salads, club sarnies, spiced sea bass and baby back ribs. The bar out front boasts an imaginative cocktail list based on the history of the area, like the Somers Town, a mix of chamomile pisco, lime, grapefruit juice and roasted pineapple syrup. We never knew that concoction was a local classic.
What do I eat? Start with a hearty bowl of thickly pureed seasonal vegetable soup (£5.50) and toasted sourdough for dunking; this could be a meal in itself. As could the chicken and veg gyoza (£6.95) with punchy chilli soya sauce, their flavours correctly balanced.
For mains? Meat-gobblers won’t want to miss the ten-ounce hunk of rib eye (£24.95) – crimson-hued and medium as requested – accompanied by a generous bowl of buttery mash or chunky chips. Other highlights include the goujon club (£10.95): slender pieces of breaded fish between three slices, with bitter rocket and a zingy pea and mint relish. And do leave room for dessert – a slice of decadent banoffee pie proves an alluring combo of textures, sweetness and crunch.
What do I drink? On a mission to consume less booze, we opt for non-alcoholic beverages and aren’t disappointed. Morning Passion is an exotic fusion of blood orange, lemonade and passion fruit, whilst the olive green Six-a-Day combines mango, pineapple, banana, broccoli, spinach, celery – goodness in a glass, albeit not that pleasing to the eye.
The interior? Elegant, with an open kitchen, burgundy banquettes and cosy two-seaters. Don’t be deceived by the unassuming exterior: inside it’s stylish and welcoming.
What’s the service like? Our server couldn’t have been more friendly or efficient; her warm approach was utterly charming.
Do say: “With a 2am license this is a noteworthy spot for a late-night bevvy”.
Don’t say: “Which way is Soho?”
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