Review: Cattle & Co, Chalton Street

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The juiciest burger we’ve tried in aeons? Yup, right here on Chalton Street


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Massive burger and chips at Cattle & Co, Chalton Street
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B

reaking news: we’ve finally uncovered the tastiest patty in Euston. Cattle & Co is, quite simply, nailing it.

But more of that later. Stepping inside, first impressions are strong: the stylish interior is laid out over a succession of distressed dining rooms, with windows right along Chalton Street.

The bar area is more casual, dishing up craft beers, including Punk IPA and Four Pure, as well as interesting cocktails and a decent wine list. (It’s also dog-friendly, fortunate with our little Jack Russell in tow.) And the long pavement terrace is surely the place to sit and soak up the vibes on market days. Or just a warm summer evening.

The main menu offers “BBQ, meat and liquor” from a charcoal oven, an imported smoker from America. It’s not trying to be anything other than comfort food, so there’s no oversell, which is refreshing nowadays.

Front of Cattle & Co, Chalton Street
Nice pavement terrace. Photo: Euston Town
What to eat? First up, we shared a juicy chicken burger, in a light coating with southern fried spices and jalapeno peppers. But it was the other main, the Cattle Burger, that got us a little over-excited.

The petite patty, in a criss-crossed brioche bun, comes from grain-fed minced beef. Even though the server hesitated when we asked for medium rare, the result was exactly the right shade of rosy, moist and packed with charred flavour from the grill. A layer of Applewood cheddar upped the umami factor, while skinny fries delivered a salty hit, aided by a spicy dip. And the slaw was winningly mayo-light – all crunchy red cabbage, with the tangy sweetness of sliced apple.

But another interesting thing, I noted as we left, is the short list of daily specials: smoked cauliflower croquettes, blackened cod with pak choi and roasted red pepper sauce, pan-fried duck with blood orange, pomegranates and papaya. This shows an ambition beyond a quality burger joint – which needs to investigated next time.

Owner Bhrij Patel’s family has a long history with the area. “Chalton Street is an unassuming street,” he says, “but it’s home. My father has run what is now Nisa, the local independent supermarket, for the last 30 years, and experienced significant changes. But Somers Town is where you still feel a sense of community.”

Patel’s summary of Cattle and Co? “Not fancy, not quiet and non-conformist”. He is of course far too modest to say it’s bloody delicious.

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More info, open daily, 3-9 Chalton Street NW1

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