Age: A couple of years or so.
Where exactly is it? Tucked away down a cobbled alleyway as part of the Wesley Hotel, itself off-the-beaten-track on Euston Street. It claims to be the first ethical hotel in the UK, and the only London hotel to earn the Social Enterprise Mark Award, which maintains “a steadfast commitment to sustainable operations and social responsibility, with innovative eco-friendly programmes and initiatives designed to protect our surroundings and minimise our carbon footprint.” It doesn’t go into any more detail than that, however. OK.
So what goes on there? Well, ethical and eco-friendly food-related antics, of course, with what could loosely be called fusion cuisine: a touch of European influence here, African and Asian there.
What should I eat? The small plates are arguably most enticing: courgette spaghetti, pork belly with scallop and carrot and miso puree, and so on. We shared prawn tempura, thinking it might be rather big – but while the prawns were juicy there were just three for £8.50. Dabs of mango puree and the odd pickled mushrooms completed the plate.
Mains include the likes of veggie risotto, tofu and duck breast: a grilled onglet, marinated in miso, was especially fine, dunked into the accompanying green peppercorn sauce (the pot of chips, mind, was teeny); the other main, however, a pan-fried salmon with steam vegetables, was too basic to warrant its £17 price-tag.
The interior: Discuss. The décor is apparently inspired by the wide, open spaces of the savannah. We rather liked its ship-like slender length, atrium windows and contemporary feel. It was just a shame we were the only diners on our midweek evening visit. On a weekend night, it would (we hoped) feel more vibrant.
And what do I drink? A wine list includes biodynamic and organic wines, and artisanal beers. We drank a very quaffable Australian Shiraz, as it was the house red (and the cheapest on the menu at a not-so-cheap £24): safe to say it matched the onglet particularly well.
What’s the service like? Fine and friendly enough, although the waitress would undoubtedly have thrived more on a buzzier vibe.
Do say: ‘I know a little place that’s a proper oasis in hectic Euston.’
Don’t say: ‘How many prawns?’
Main photo: Dan Hall